Everest not according to plan. · Sherpa didn’t prepare

                                                                       Everest Assignment.

 

The reasons why this disaster happened:

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·       
Bad weather

Even before people
begin to climb Mount Everest, the Base camp received a message about a storm
that was approaching the mountain. The weather was not the most successful for
the expedition and by 5 pm the weather had deteriorated to a full-blown snow
storm. Spoiled weather complicated the descent to the participants of the
expedition. By this time, because of the blizzard on the south-western slope of
Everest, visibility has significantly deteriorated, the marks that were
installed during the ascent have disappeared under the snow and have indicated
the way to “camp 4”. On this day on the mountain there were inhuman
conditions: a snowstorm, darkness, frost, almost zero visibility and lack of
oxygen.

·       
The lack of oxygen ( they was sick of oxygen)

Some clients of both
groups did not tolerate altitude, they had to sleep with oxygen during
acclimatization exits. This reduced the supply of oxygen for climbing to a
critical minimum, which was not enough for customers and guides to descend from
the top, as soon as things went not according to plan.

·       
Sherpa didn’t prepare rode for climbers. In the
South East Ridge wasn’t rope.

During the climbing up
the mountain there were a lot of unplanned stops. However, the most unpleasant
stop was the balcony. The balcony is part of the so-called “death
zone” – a place where people can’t stay for long because of the cold and
lack of oxygen, and any delay can become fatal. However, there is one more
delay. All climbers have to wait until the Sherpa recreated the railing again.
Such rails should be laid to the South Peak.

·       
The problem with the radios

Another drawback was
the outdated, ten-channel radio, which Scott Fisher purchased for the expedition.
In addition, before they even reached “camp three”, the “Base camp” and Rob
tried to contact Fisher, but without success. Moreover, during the final storm
of the peak neither Bukreev nor Bidlman had radios, as a result of which they
could not contact either one of the camps or with the straggler Fisher.

·       
Didn’t get there in time (If at two o’clock you
have not yet reached the summit of Mount Everest, then you must turn back.)

The weather began to
deteriorate, at about 3:00 pm it began to snow and become dark. Scott Fisher
got to the top only at 15:45, being in poor physical condition. When Rob Hall
and Doug Hansen reached the top it was already around 16:15.

·       
Too many people (34)

On that day, there
were 3 expeditions on the mountain Everest: “Adventure Consultants”, “Mountain
Madness” and the “Indian-Tibet Border Service”. Because of this when, at 10:00,
Bidlman and Adams rose to the South Peak, they had to wait an hour and a half,
as there was only one rope, and there were a lot of climbers. Climbing three
large groups of climbers in one day is another mistake.

 

“Tourist mountaineering” on Everest led to this
disaster.  How would you change the rules
of the commercial mountaineering business to avoid future accidents as much as
possible?  Give three ways of doing this.

1)     
To
prevent to the top of Everest for those who have never climbed to the top and
control people number. That day on the mountain there were
several groups of climbers (about 34 people), which, undoubtedly, could affect
the congestion of the route and cause delays. Climbing Everest is a commercial
expedition, focused solely on making profit, all interested persons could take
part in it. Professional guide guides took on all the responsibilities:
delivering customers to the base camp, arranging accommodation and meals,
providing equipment, escort to the top with insurance. If you are willing to
pay $ 65,000 for a non-guaranteed attempt to climb, then you automatically
become broad in the shoulders, like Schwarzenegger, enduring like an Ethiopian
marathon runner, and experienced, like Edmund Hillary himself, at least in the
eyes of the person to whom you pay the money. Because of this approach,
commercial people often take people who are obviously incapable of climbing to
the top.

 

2)     
If
the person is weakened during the raising to the mountain, he must descend to
the Base camp or the first closest, depends of state of health. (ex. Doug Hansen)
I think that Rob Hall and Harold died because of selfish, stubborn, unrealistic
desires of Doug on the summit when he was clearly in trouble. Several people,
including Sherpas, told him to turn around and he refused. Rob is clearly bad
for the guy who probably idolized climbers such as Scott and Rob. In one moment
bad decision Rob clearly noticed that it was his inability to turn Doug around,
which caused its collapse and later felt guilt, so he stayed with him to ensure
his safety. I think Doug was above their level of climbing and may have died in
any case of hypoxia, but Rob would do it. It was a series of bad decisions
based more on emotions than on logic.

 

 

3)     
Add
more professional climbers who will be checking the road before the trip.
To prevent unplanned stops, professional climbers must stand at the beginning,
middle and at the end of the unit. This will help the group stay together and
if something happened, people can help each other quickly. In this tragedy,
unplanned stops and delays started due to the fact that Sherpas and guides did
not manage to fix the ropes by the time the clients arrived. Having reached the
Hillary Step mark, the vertical ledge on the south-eastern edge of Everest,
climbers faced the problem of loose equipment, which caused them to lose an
hour, waiting for the problem to be eliminated. The climbers stayed for
about an hour without any moving and spending the necessary for life oxygen.
This situation was also really meaningful reason of Everest disaster.

 

In conclusion I want to say that conquest of eight-thousands
is an incredibly difficult task, which necessarily implies a certain degree of
risk to life. It can be minimized by proper preparation and planning, but at
this height even small mistakes and accidents, forming a harmonious chain,
growing like a snowball, lead to a great tragedy.